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Jessica Berndt’s Fall Makeup Tips and How-To’s

September 12, 2012

Pretty much every time I go to a department store beauty counter and get a “makeover” I end up leaving looking like a drag queen.  Or Joan Collins in the 80’s. Or Snooki. When we started gloss48, Jodi suggested that we get to know a makeup artist that she has worked with for years, Jessica Berndt. We soon realized that Jessica was quite the tour de force around town, having done work for many of the prestige beauty brands, and as the Artistic Director for StyleWeek Providence. After she did my makeup, I looked like ME! Only better! And not as worn out and blah! So, we asked her to help us on gloss48 (watch one of her videos!).

In a makeup makeover marathon with Jessica one day last May, we quickly discovered that the term “makeup artist” doesn’t  come close to capturing Jessica’s areas of expertise, and her passions. Not only does she know a truckload about color cosmetics but she also has a very strong understanding of skincare chemistry and what makes a good formulation for your skin type. She is not one to try to sell you on a specific brand of product unless she personally feels there is a strong benefit for your individual skin type or look.

As a side note, Jessica is somewhat of a chameleon. Like a true makeup maven, she likes to play with her look and we’ve seen her go from redhead to dark-haired ingenue to blonde bombshell in a matter of months, and on to the next look. And one of the first things I remember her telling was that we should go home and just play around with different brow shapes – just sit there in front of a mirror and “try on” brows in the comfort of our living room.

Jessica Berndt loves to play with her look

Jessica shares her fall makeup tips and fave products with us here:

1. Your skin as nature intended it. 

Simon Doonan said recently that  “Tans are the shoulder pads of the face….wildly, screechingly OUT”.  Pale is making it’s comeback. That said. If you are born with beautiful deep dark skin you are certainly by no means out.  What is out is that baked dehydrated skin that screams Jersey Shore cast member, that chemically enhanced carrot colored skin.

Instead what is in, is the color of skin you had when you were a baby.

So whip out that high spf.  Start using those skin brightening serums; Fade the dark spots and let your baby skin shine!

My chosen brightening weapons are: Chantecaille Vital Essence with ArbutinKate Sommerville- Complexion CorrectorChanel- Blanc Concentre.

And after you have eliminated your blotchiness as best you can; wear the most sheer foundation you can handle and apply very very sparingly. Foundation shouldn’t be visible. Instead you should look like mother nature personally air brushed you.

Try Laura Mercier Creme Smooth FoundationMake Up For Ever Face and Body MakeupNars Sheer Glow Foundation

Making your skin appear effortlessly flawless lets what ever features you choose to spotlight really shine.

2. Put down the tweezers, pick up your brow pencil. 

Bold brows are sticking around for fall.   If your eyes are the windows to the souls, your brows are the drapes.

A fuller brow can balance your face. It makes you look younger. And it creates a beautifully timeless tailored look. Find a brow pencil that has the right depth and undertones for your skin. Steer clear of ones with too much warmth (unless you are a redhead). Most light haired women will look lovely in a taupe pencil. Most brunettes will do okay with a cool brown.

For light hair  I love Laura Mercier Blonde Brow pencil. For darker hair I am all about Kevyn Aucoin’s Brow Pencil in Brunette.

Always use light sketching motions to mimic hair and avoid the “Joan Crawford” look. The inside of your brow should line up directly above the outside of your nostril. The arch of your brow should line up just above your pupil. And if you drew a straight line from your nostril to your temple, the end of your brow should intersect that line.  And go FULL or go home!

3. Heavy Metal is smoking this season!

Instead of that heavy black smoky eye, try metallics this season. It is softer, but still so sexy.  Smoky eyes will never ever go out of style. We all want to have mesmerizing hypnotic eyes. But instead of the intimidating black that can make you look a bit like a sad panda go for a skin flattering metallic.  It is also an excuse to use creme eye shadows which are really easy to use. Start with your black or dark brown liner pencil in between your lashes for definition,  then smudging out from the lashes work a smoldering copper, gold or pewter that tickles your fancy.

Give one of these a try: YSL Fard Lumiere in Copper/BrownLaura Mercier Creme Metallics in Alloy, Gold, or Burnished CopperMake Up For Ever Aqua Shadow in Pearly Copper, Pearly Taupe or Pearly Beige.

Smudge as far out as you want for really smoky, or keep it close to the lash line for a more subdued smoke. Finish by dusting a light coat of a shimmery powder shadow that compliments the cream you have chosen and then top with lots of mascara. You will look lovely and the shimmer will capture the light and make your eyes look younger and sexier (none of that “mature women can’t wear shimmer” silliness – formulas have evolved don’t be afraid).

4. Lashes Lashes Lashes

Mascara is a gazillion dollar a year business. And people take their mascara very very seriously. People will outright fight and battle to prove their mascara is superior.  I know women who will buy $60 a tube mascara without flinching. And women who swear their is no greater mascara than the pink and green standby.

Here is my take: We are supposed to throw our mascara out every other month. I personally am so freaked out by the idea of smearing a bacteria laden mascara wand across my eye that I throw my mascara out every single month. I am also cheap. I will buy quality and luxury when it comes to my skin, my complexion, my hair, and my lips. But with something as disposable as mascara I go inexpensive. The other things is, I hate smudges. I will put my makeup on at six in the morning and I don’t want to touch up my makeup at all. I want it to be bomb proof, but I will not use waterproof mascara. Instead I use a polymer based mascara. One of those mascaras that comes off in little tubes with hot water. I always start with a lash primer. And admittedly I am not loyal. I will used whatever one I am given, or can get cheap. Then I top with one of the tube mascaras. I only know of four (if anyone knows any others I want to know):

L’Oreal Beauty TubesTrish McEvoy Volume MascaraKevyn Aucoin Volumizing MascaraBlinc Kiss Me Mascara.

And of course if mascara is not enough you can always go false!  Play with false lashes they are fun. Or go to a counter and have them apply them for you, normally for a small fee or a purchase.  I am going to let you in on a little secret about fake lashes.  Every makeup artist I have known over my many years of doing this uses cheap lashes. I will fully acknowledge how beautiful Shu Uemura and Make Up For Ever lashes are. But once you apply them, they look an awful lot like the $3 Ardell lashes. So while I will fight you tooth and nail to be willing to invest in a beautiful moisturizer and a beautiful foundation. When it comes to mascara, feel no shame about your  buy one get one free mascara and lashes.

5. Beautiful red/burgundy lip is the perfect cherry on top of a beauty sundae!

Easily the trend I am most excited about for fall is the deep red lip. A woman I admire once told me that “no successful woman has entered her thirties without a red lipstick in her purse.” And while I will acknowledge that that is quite a sweeping statement, when I think of the women who have inspired me in my life; I do see a lot of red lips in the crowd.

There is a red lip for every woman. If you ever run into me and try to tell me that you can’t wear red lipstick because of…(insert ridiculous excuse here), expect me to drag you to the nearest counter or drug store and watch me prove you wrong. Thin lipped women can be beautiful in red lips (think Angelica Houston and Meryl Streep), fair skinned women are striking in red, and dark skinned women are positively ravishing in red. If your skin is less than perfect, follow the rules of beauty trend number one up above before popping that red lip on,  but let me say it again THERE IS A RED LIP FOR EVERY WOMAN.

The only thing you HAVE to have to wear red, is the confidence to be dazzling in a room full of boring mauve/brown lip colors. But try it! Don’t just save it for the holidays.

I love a red lip with a pencil skirt. I love a red lip with jeans. On days when I wear no other makeup I will still probably have a red lipstick on. You can even sometimes catch me leaving yoga class putting a red lip on for my trip to the market on my way home.

The reds you will find in my purse are as follows: Make Up For Ever Aqua Rouge in #’s 8 and 9Laura Mercier Lip Color in Red Amour and Bing CherryChanel Rouge Allure in PirateArmour Beauty gloss in Barracuda.

When you wear your red lip though, keep everything else (except your brows in my humble opinion) soft.Let your red lip be more of an accessory and less like a bit of makeup. If you were wearing the Hope diamond, you most likely would forego any other jewelry, same thing goes with your crimson kisser.

This is the season to take yourself out of the box. PLAY with your makeup. There was a time when we begged our moms to let us wear makeup. Now so many of us treat beauty like an obligation. Rediscover your love affair with product. Buy yourself some new toys and experiment. It isn’t tattooing. If it doesn’t look great wipe it off and start over.

But if nothing else wear red lipstick at least once this fall.  Once you see how people are spellbound by you, you will never want to put it away.

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